Category: Blog

There are never enough crochet patterns out there are specifically designed strictly for men. With that in mind, I designed the Smokey Ridge Beanie that has a fun texture but isn’t boring or gives off a feminine feel.

****Post contains affiliate links – which means if you make a purchase from the links below, I will get a small percentage of the sales at no additional cost to you****

The Yarn

I wanted to use a different yarn this go ’round. I’ve been using local craft store yarns recently and I needed something new. I decided to use 2 Ply Sport by Morehouse Farm Merino. It is a non-superwash, not carbonized, 100% natural merino.

Morehouse Farm is located in Red Hook, NY. It isn’t too far from where I live and have quite a few weekends that they have an open house so you can see the sheep that the wool comes from. They often travel to wool and yarn festivals. Morehouse will be at Rhinebeck or also known as the New York Sheep & Wool Festival in October.

The color I picked is called Seafoam. I thought it was a great color that wasn’t a neutral but also wasn’t too feminine. With my husband in mind as my model for my finished beanie I also wanted a color that he would wear. You won’t believe this… The color of the yarn matches his eyes!

Supplies Needed

200 yards Morehouse Farm Merino Yarn or equivalent weight yarn such as Paintbox Simply Dk
G/4.00mm and H/5.00mm Furls Odyssey crochet hooks
Measuring tape
Yarn needle
Scissors
Stitch markers

Stitches Used

Ch – Chain
Dc – Double Crochet
Hdc – Half Double Crochet
Sc – Single Crochet
Sl St – Slip Stitch
Sdc – Starting Double Crochet
BLO – Back Loop Only
FLO – Front Loop Only

Stitch Definition:

Starting Double Crochet – (also known as Long Chain Double Crochet or Chainless Starting Double Crochet.) Pull up your loop to the height of your usual Double Crochet. Yarn over, insert into the 1^st St, yarn over, pull through the Stitch, yarn over, pull through two loops on the hook, yarn over, pull through the remaining two loops on your hook.
You could also use this method:

Gauge & Finished Size(s)

Gauge: 5 rounds = 4.5” diameter

Finished Size: 8.5” tall x 10.5” wide

Head Circumference: approx. 23”

Pattern Notes

Written in US crochet terms.

Worked in the round.

Must know the difference between the front, back, and third loop of stitches.

Will need two different hook sizes.

A stitch definition for the Sdc is provided. The Sdc can be substituted with a Ch 3.

A stitch count is provided at the end of each round.

The Pattern

With H/5.0mm hook

1.) In Magic Circle, Sdc, 9DC. Join with a Sl St. (10)

2.) Turn, (Sdc, Dc) FLO of 1^st St, 2Dc FLO of next St and around.
Join with a Sl St. (20)

3.) Turn, Ch 1, 2Hdc BLO of 1^st St, Hdc BLO of next St, *2Hdc BLO of next St, Hdc BLO of next St, repeat from * around. Join with a Sl St. (30) Should measure 3”in diameter

4.) Turn, Ch 1, 2Hdc 3^rd Loop (far front loop) of 1^st St, Hdc 3^rd Loop of next 2 Sts, *2Hdc 3^rd Loop of next St, Hdc 3^rd Loop of next 2 Sts, repeat from * around. Join with a Sl St. (40) Should measure 3.5” in diameter

5.) Turn, (Sdc, Dc) in 1^st St, Dc in next 3 Sts, *2Dc in next St, Dc in next 3 Sts, repeat from *around. Join with a Sl St. (50) Should measure 4.5” in diameter.

6.) Turn, (Sdc, Dc) FLO of 1^st St, Dc FLO of next 4 Sts, *2Dc FLO of next St, Dc FLO of next 4 Sts, repeat from * around. Join with a Sl St. (60) Should measure 5.5” in diameter.

7.) Turn, Ch 1, 2Hdc BLO of 1^st St, Hdc BLO of next 5 Sts, *2Hdc BLO of next St, Hdc BLO of next 5 Sts, repeat from * around. Join with a Sl St. (70)

8.) Turn, Ch 1, 2Hdc 3^rd Loop (far front loop) of 1^st St, Hdc 3^rd Loop of next 6 Sts, *2Hdc 3^rd Loop of next St, Hdc 3^rd Loop of next 6 Sts, repeat from * around. Join with a Sl St. (80) Should measure 6” in diameter.

9.) Turn, (Sdc, Dc) in 1^st St, Dc in next 7 Sts, *2Dc in next St, Dc in next 7 Sts, repeat from *around. Join with a Sl St. (90) Should measure 7.25” in diameter

10.) Turn, Sdc FLO of 1^st St, Dc FLO of next St and each St around. Join with a Sl St. (90)

11.) Turn, Ch1, Hdc BLO of 1^st and each St around. Join with a Sl St. (90)

12.) Turn, Ch1, Hdc 3^rd Loop (far front loop) of 1^st St and each St around. Join with a Sl St. (90)

13.) Turn, Sdc in 1^st St, Dc in next St and each St around.
Join with a Sl St. (90)

14.) Turn, Sdc FLO of 1^st St, Dc FLO of next St and each St around. Join with a Sl St. (90)

15.) Turn, Ch1, Hdc BLO of 1^st and each St around. Join with a Sl St. (90)

16.) Turn, Ch1, Hdc 3^rd Loop (far front loop) of 1^st St and each St around. Join with a Sl St. (90)

17.) Turn, Sdc in 1^st St, Dc in next St and each St around. Join with a Sl St. (90)

18.) Turn, Sdc FLO of 1^st St, Dc FLO of next St and each St around. Join with a Sl St. (90)

19.) Turn, Ch1, Hdc BLO of 1^st and each St around. Join with a Sl St. (90)

Change to G/4.0mm hook

20.) DO NOT TURN, Ch1, Hdc 3^rd Loop (far back loop) of 1^st St and each St around. Join with a Sl St. (90)

21.) Ch1, Hdc 3^rd Loop (far back loop) of 1^st St and each St around. Join with a Sl St. (90)

22.) Ch1, Hdc 3^rd Loop (far back loop) of 1^st St and each St around. Join with a Sl St. (90)

23.) Ch1, Hdc 3^rd Loop (far back loop) of 1^st St and each St around. Join with a Sl St. (90)

24.) Ch1, Sc 3^rd Loop (far back loop) of 1^st St and each St around. Join with a Sl St. (90)

Finish off and weave in ends.

Availability

You can purchase the Smokey Ridge Beanie on Ravelry and Etsy.

Do you want the Smokey Ridge Beanie along with 20 other crochet patterns just for men? Purchase the Just For Men Pattern Bundle for only $14.99!

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I’d love to hear from you! Don’t hesitate to contact me.  Let me know what you’re working on or designs you’d like to see in the future.  Use the links above or email me at crochetsbytrista@gmail.com 

If you’ve purchased my designs in the past, leave a review.  I want to know what you think.

You may sell finished items made with my pattern, I just ask that you credit the design to Crochets By Trista.

I can not offer any refunds on patterns due to it being a pdf download.

Welcome to Part 6 of the Lupine Shawl CAL. This week is the last week of the CAL and we will go over all the steps to put finishing touches on your Lupine Shawl.

****Post contains affiliate links – which means if you make a purchase from the links below, I will get a small percentage of the sales at no additional cost to you****

If you’ve missed any of the previous sections you can find them here:

Part 1 – Supplies and Pattern Notes
Part 2 – Rows 1-10
Part 3 – Rows 11-20
Part 4 – Rows 21-30
Part 5 – Rows 31-40
Part 6 – Border and Blocking Instructions

So the body of your Lupine Shawl should be complete now. This following section is completely optional.

It should look similar to this:

When you ended on Row 40 you should have a stitch count of 400. Good thing I check my stitch counts often; I ended up missing two stitches on this last row.

Border

You’ll want to change skeins again, that is unless you still have enough for 2 rows in the current skein. I had already played enough yarn chicken, I wasn’t going to tempt fate again.

Row 1.) Ch 1, turn, Sc in 1^st St, Ch 3, *Sk 1, Sc, Ch 3, repeat from * until Ch 2 Sp, (Sc, Ch 3, Sc) in Ch 2 Sp, *Ch 3, Sk 1, Sc, repeat from * until end. (201 Ch 3 Sps)

Row 2.) Ch 1, Turn, Sc in 1^st St, *Ch 3, Sc in Ch 3 Sp, repeat from * until end, Ch 3, Sc in last St. (202 Ch 3 Sps)

Finish off and weave in all ends (which we probably should have done as we went along 😉).

Blocking Your Lupine Shawl

Blocking your finished shawl is completely optional. I know that not all of us have the resources or room to block such a large item.

Materials you’ll need to block your Lupine Shawl include:

• Stainless steel t-pins
• Blocking wires (makes life easier)

I used 16 block.

Step 1

Hand wash your shawl with a wool wash/gentle soap. Rinse well. Remove as much water as possible.

Step 2

Wrap in a towel to help bring out any residual water. Let it sit for a few minutes while you set up your mats and get your supplies ready.

Set up your mats in a place out of the way of normal traffic. I put my mats in the living room so the kids wouldn’t get to it. They were blocking the front door, which we don’t use. If we needed to use the door for an emergency the least of my worries would be the shawl.

Step 3

Center your shawl on the blocking mats. Start pinning the edge from the middle out. You’ll want to pull slightly, just enough to open the stitch work to your liking.

I placed a pin every 2-3 inches.

Once the top edge is pinned you can move on to the outer edge.

I used blocking wires that knitters usually use for their lacework. Since the Lupine Shawl is lacy I figured I would give them a try.

They worked out really well. I weaved the wires through the spaces in the border going over and under the Sc. Once in place I pinned the wire to the blocking mat.

The wires helped open up the stitching of the border without having to pin each one.

You can adjust any of your pins as you go. I personally like symmetry so what I did to one side I did to the other.

Step 4

Once your Lupine Shawl is pinned in place let it dry for a few days until its fully dry. The time will vary based on the material of the yarn used and how much water was still left in the shawl after washing.

You WILL need to repeat these steps each time you wash your finished shawl. A reason why I like to design pieces that blocking is optional.

Blocking Vs. Not Blocking

So… did you know that I’ve made the Lupine Shawl TWICE?!?! When I made the first one I didn’t photograph any steps. I just kept hooking along.

For the CAL I wanted to photograph most of the steps for you so I needed to make it again.

Here are a few noticeable differences between blocking vs. not blocking. I blocked the first one but not the second because I wanted to show how they differ.

You will probably be the only one to notice on your own shawl.

In the first photo below, on the left is the original shawl and on the right the new one. You can see how by blocking helps open up the stitch work, especially on the border.

I took the following photo with the unblocked shawl over the blocked one. When blocking merino wool like the hand-dyed yarn from High Desert Yarn, there is a lot of stretch in the wet fibers. You can gain a few inches in your shawl after blocking.

So have you decided if you’ll block your shawl? I’m not going to lie, its a pain in the ass, but the results are worth it!!

Share Your Finished Shawl

Use the next week or two to catch up on your shawl and let it dry (if you decided to block it).

Share your finished shawl with the world. You can…

• Upload your project to Ravelry HERE.
• Share your photos in the Facebook group
• Use #LupineShawlCAL on Instagram and tag me @crochetsbytrista
• Email me at crochetsbytrista@gmail.com 

It has been so much fun hosting the Lupine Shawl CAL! I’m glad you’ve decided to join too!

Availability

You can purchase the PDF download on Ravelry and Etsy.

Follow Crochets By Trista on:
Facebook
Instagram
Pinterest
Ravelry
Etsy
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Love Crafts

Join the
“Crochets By Trista Crochet Community”
on Facebook. 

I’d love to hear from you! Don’t hesitate to contact me.  Let me know what you’re working on or designs you’d like to see in the future.  Use the links above or email me at crochetsbytrista@gmail.com 

If you’ve purchased my designs in the past, leave a review.  I want to know what you think.

We’re almost done with the Lupine Shawl! This week we will be finishing the main part of the shawl. We’ll be going over rows 31 through 40.

If you’ve missed out on previous sections of the Lupine Shawl CAL they can be found here:

****Post contains affiliate links – which means if you make a purchase from the links below, I will get a small percentage of the sales at no additional cost to you****

Your Lupine Shawl should currently look similar to the one pictured below. You should also have a stitch count of 300 (without counting the Ch 2 space in the center).

You should probably weave in your ends now if you haven’t been doing it already. I didn’t as you can see. I wasn’t the best thing to spend time doing it all at the end.

Row 31.) Turn, (Str, 3Tr) in 1^st St, Tr in next St and across until Ch 2 Sp, (2Tr, Ch 2, 2Tr) in Ch 2 Sp, Tr in next St and across until last St, (4Tr) in last St. (310)

Row 32.) Turn, (Str, Tr, Ch 1, Tr) in 1^st St, *Ch 1, Sk 1, Tr, repeat from * until Ch 2 Sp, (2Tr, Ch 2, 2Tr) in Ch 2 Sp, *Tr, Ch 1, Sk 1, repeat from * until last St, (Tr, Ch 1, 2Tr) in last St. (320)

Row 33.) Turn, (Str, Tr, Ch 1, Tr) in 1^st St, Ch 1, Sk 1, *Tr, Ch 1, Sk 1, repeat from * until Ch 2 Sp, (2Tr, Ch 2, 2Tr) in Ch 2 Sp, Ch 1, Sk 1, *Tr, Ch 1, Sk 1, repeat from * until last St, (Tr, Ch 1, 2Tr) in last St. (330)

Row 34.) Turn, (Str, Tr, Ch 1, Tr) in 1^st St, *Ch 1, Sk 1, Tr, repeat from * until Ch 2 Sp, (2Tr, Ch 2, 2Tr) in Ch 2 Sp, *Tr, Ch 1, Sk 1, repeat from * until last St, (Tr, Ch 1, 2Tr) in last St. (340)

Row 35.) Turn, (Str, 3Tr) in 1^st St, Tr in next St and across until Ch 2 Sp, (2Tr, Ch 2, 2Tr) in Ch 2 Sp, Tr in next St and across until last St, (4Tr) in last St. (350)

If you’re changing skeins every 5 rows, this is the time that you’ll want to do that.

Row 36.) Turn, (Str, 3Tr) in 1^st St, Tr in next St and across until Ch 2 Sp, (2Tr, Ch 2, 2Tr) in Ch 2 Sp, Tr in next St and across until last St, (4Tr) in last St. (360)

Row 37.) Turn, (Str, Tr, Ch 1, Tr) in 1^st St, Ch 1, Sk 1, *Tr, Ch 1, Sk 1, repeat from * until Ch 2 Sp, (2Tr, Ch 2, 2Tr) in Ch 2 Sp, Ch 1, Sk 1, *Tr, Ch 1, Sk 1, repeat from * until last St, (Tr, Ch 1, 2Tr) in last St. (370)

Row 38.) Turn, (Str, Tr, Ch 1, Tr) in 1^st St, *Ch 1, Sk 1, Tr, repeat from * until Ch 2 Sp, (2Tr, Ch 2, 2Tr) in Ch 2 Sp, *Tr, Ch 1, Sk 1, repeat from * until last St, (Tr, Ch 1, 2Tr) in last St. (380)

Row 39.) Turn, (Str, Tr, Ch 1, Tr) in 1^st St, Ch 1, Sk 1, *Tr, Ch 1, Sk 1, repeat from * until Ch 2 Sp, (2Tr, Ch 2, 2Tr) in Ch 2 Sp, Ch 1, Sk 1, *Tr, Ch 1, Sk 1, repeat from * until last St, (Tr, Ch 1, 2Tr) in last St. (390)

You might want to change skeins this last row. I played a little yarn chicken. This is all I have left of that skein. Totally up to you, if you live for the thrill, go for it; worst case you have to frog it.

Row 40.) Turn, (Str, 3Tr) in 1^st St, Tr in next St and across until Ch 2 Sp, (2Tr, Ch 2, 2Tr) in Ch 2 Sp, Tr in next St and across until last St, (4Tr) in last St. (400)

You’ve completed the main section of the Lupine Shawl. Next week we will go over the border and how to block it (if you wanted to).

Weave in those ends. You can see that I still haven’t done mine… oops.

Follow Crochets By Trista on:
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Pinterest
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Join the
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I’d love to hear from you! Don’t hesitate to contact me.  Let me know what you’re working on or designs you’d like to see in the future.  Use the links above or email me at crochetsbytrista@gmail.com 

If you’ve purchased my designs in the past, leave a review.  I want to know what you think.

Welcome to Part 4 of the Lupine Shawl CAL! This week we cover rows 21 through 30.

If you’ve missed any of the previous sections you can find them here:

****Post contains affiliate links – which means if you make a purchase from the links below, I will get a small percentage of the sales at no additional cost to you****

You’re current shawl should look similar to the one pictured below.

Row 21.) Turn, (Str, 3Tr) in 1^st St, Tr in next St and across until Ch 2 Sp, (2Tr, Ch 2, 2Tr) in Ch 2 Sp, Tr in next St and across until last St, (4Tr) in last St. (210)

Row 22.) Turn, (Str, Tr, Ch 1, Tr) in 1^st St, *Ch 1, Sk 1, Tr, repeat from * until Ch 2 Sp, (2Tr, Ch 2, 2Tr) in Ch 2 Sp, *Tr, Ch 1, Sk 1, repeat from * until last St, (Tr, Ch 1, 2Tr) in last St. (220)

Row 23.) Turn, (Str, Tr, Ch 1, Tr) in 1^st St, Ch 1, Sk 1, *Tr, Ch 1, Sk 1, repeat from * until Ch 2 Sp, (2Tr, Ch 2, 2Tr) in Ch 2 Sp, Ch 1, Sk 1, *Tr, Ch 1, Sk 1, repeat from * until last St, (Tr, Ch 1, 2Tr) in last St. (230)

Row 24.) Turn, (Str, Tr, Ch 1, Tr) in 1st St, *Ch 1, Sk 1, Tr, repeat from * until Ch 2 Sp, (2Tr, Ch 2, 2Tr) in Ch 2 Sp, *Tr, Ch 1, Sk 1, repeat from * until last St, (Tr, Ch 1, 2Tr) in last St. (240)

Row 25.) Turn, (Str, 3Tr) in 1^st St, Tr in next St and across until Ch 2 Sp, (2Tr, Ch 2, 2Tr) in Ch 2 Sp, Tr in next St and across until last St, (4Tr) in last St. (250)

Remember to change skeins at this point if you have at all the previous changes.

I’m running out of room on my photography table so flat lays are getting a little difficult.

Row 26.) Turn, (Str, 3Tr) in 1^st St, Tr in next St and across until Ch 2 Sp, (2Tr, Ch 2, 2Tr) in Ch 2 Sp, Tr in next St and across until last St, (4Tr) in last St. (260)

Row 27.) Turn, (Str, Tr, Ch 1, Tr) in 1^st St, Ch 1, Sk 1, *Tr, Ch 1, Sk 1, repeat from * until Ch 2 Sp, (2Tr, Ch 2, 2Tr) in Ch 2 Sp, Ch 1, Sk 1, *Tr, Ch 1, Sk 1, repeat from * until last St, (Tr, Ch 1, 2Tr) in last St. (270)

Row 28.) Turn, (Str, Tr, Ch 1, Tr) in 1^st St, *Ch 1, Sk 1, Tr, repeat from * until Ch 2 Sp, (2Tr, Ch 2, 2Tr) in Ch 2 Sp, *Tr, Ch 1, Sk 1, repeat from * until last St, (Tr, Ch 1, 2Tr) in last St. (280)

Row 29.) Turn, (Str, Tr, Ch 1, Tr) in 1^st St, Ch 1, Sk 1, *Tr, Ch 1, Sk 1, repeat from * until Ch 2 Sp, (2Tr, Ch 2, 2Tr) in Ch 2 Sp, Ch 1, Sk 1, *Tr, Ch 1, Sk 1, repeat from * until last St, (Tr, Ch 1, 2Tr) in last St. (290)

Row 30.) Turn, (Str, 3Tr) in 1^st St, Tr in next St and across until Ch 2 Sp, (2Tr, Ch 2, 2Tr) in Ch 2 Sp, Tr in next St and across until last St, (4Tr) in last St. (300)

Change skeins now if you’ve changed skeins at the other sections.

Your current Lupine Shawl should look similar to the one pictured below.

Next week will will cover rows 31 through 40. This will be the last section of main shawl. We’re almost done!

Part 5

Click HERE for Part 5 of the Lupine Shawl CAL!

Availability

You can purchase the PDF download on Ravelry and Etsy.

Follow Crochets By Trista on:
Facebook
Instagram
Pinterest
Ravelry
Etsy
Ribblr
Love Crafts

Join the
“Crochets By Trista Crochet Community”
on Facebook.

I’d love to hear from you! Don’t hesitate to contact me.  Let me know what you’re working on or designs you’d like to see in the future.  Use the links above or email me at crochetsbytrista@gmail.com 

If you’ve purchased my designs in the past, leave a review.  I want to know what you think.