Category: Blog

March 10th through the 22nd 2024 you can enjoy 12 crochet patterns perfect for a mom and new baby for $2.00 each! No coupon is needed either!

Featured designers include:
Bear Rye, Craftopia Collective, SaiASmi – Dreamz In Yarn, My Fingers Fly, Regina P Designs, VivaCrochet, OVC Designs, Straight Hooked, Jo’s Crafty Hook, Pine Tree Crochet, Marsha Yarn Doodles, Canoe Mtn Designs.

Below you will find links to each of our featured patterns. You can click each image or the link provided.

Bear Rye

Bear Rye‘s Little Boy Blue Hat is an adorable trapper style hat comes in multiple sizes from newborn all the way to adult.

Follow Bear Rye on Instagram & Facebook.

Craftopia Collective

Craftopia Collective‘s Judy’s Blanket (With Bonus Plushie) is a stunning patchwork blanket made up of three different square designs, each done in a separate color.

Follow Craftopia Collective on Instagram & Facebook.

SaiASmi – Dreamz In Yarn

SaiASmi – Dreamz In Yarn‘s Sweet Baby Bonnet is a fun project made in one piece and no sewing.

Follow SaiASmi – Dreamz In Yarn on Instagram & Facebook.

My Fingers Fly

My Fingers Fly‘s Military Baby Sweater is an adorable camouflage baby sweater designed to look like a camouflage combat uniform includes angled front pocket and pen pocket on the sleeve. Pattern also includes alphabet chart to add personalized name plate. Bonus: First aid kit rattle pattern included.

Follow My Fingers Fly on Instagram & Facebook.

Regina P Designs

Regina P Designs‘ Sweet Snuggles Baby Blanket will keep your little one feeling cozy and warm. The beautiful texture and vibrant colors will bring a cheerful look to any nursery. This design uses a couple easy stitches to create a neat texture and is easy to make. The Sweet Snuggles Baby Blanket is beginner friendly too!

Follow Regina P Designs on Instagram and Facebook.

VivaCrochet

VivaCrochet‘s Icicle Dance Car Seat Blanket is a cozy and small sized blanket perfect to carry with you when you take your precious little bundle on a ride with you!

Follow VivaCrochet on Instagram & Facebook.

OVC Designs

OVC Designs‘ Velvet Bunny Lovey is a cute amigurumi granny stitch mash-up that is both snuggly and adorable for those little ones in your life!

Follow OVC Designs on Instagram & Facebook.

Straight Hooked

Straight Hooked‘s Kenzie Blanket can be made in either preemie or full-term size. It has great texture to stimulate developing brains and works up quickly.

Follow Straight Hooked on Instagram & Facebook.

Jo’s Crafty Hook

Jo’s Crafty Hook‘s Jacob’s Ladder Kradle Blanket is a unisex baby blanket for newborns and so easy to customize to make your favorite size.

Follow Jo’s Crafty Hook on Instagram & Facebook.

Marsha Yarn Doodles

Marsha Yarn Doodles‘ Ozzy Octopus Lovey has many arms to deliver a comforting hug to a little one. It can be made in most any weight yarn too.

Follow Marsha Yarn Doodles on Instagram & Facebook.

Pine Tree Crochet

Pine Tree Crochet‘s Little Lady Ladybug would makes a cute gift for any new arrival.

Follow Pine Tree Crochet on Instagram & Facebook.

Canoe Mtn Designs

Canoe Mtn Designs‘ Cable Cocoon & Hat is the perfect unisex baby gift with a beautiful cable design that is both cozy and warm. The Cable Cocoon pattern is available in 3 sizes.

Follow Canoe Mtn Designs on Instagram & Facebook.

Crochets By Trista

My featured design is the Rolling Hills Baby Blanket. The wonderful texture of the Rolling Hills Baby Blanket is stunning and adds an extra detail to a simple baby blanket. The Rolling Hills Baby Blanekt is perfect to use on the floor when a soft surface for a nap isn’t available.

Follow Crochets By Trista on:
Facebook
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Pinterest
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Etsy
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Love Crafts

Join the
“Crochets By Trista Crochet Community”
on Facebook.

I’d love to hear from you! Don’t hesitate to contact me. Let me know what you’re working on or designs you’d like to see in the future. Use the links above or email me at crochetsbytrista@gmail.com

If you’ve purchased my designs in the past, leave a review. I want to know what you think.

You may sell finished items made with my pattern, I just ask that you credit the design to Crochets By Trista.

I can not offer any refunds on patterns due to it being a pdf download.

Welcome to Part 6 of the Lupine Shawl CAL. This week is the last week of the CAL and we will go over all the steps to put finishing touches on your Lupine Shawl.

****Post contains affiliate links – which means if you make a purchase from the links below, I will get a small percentage of the sales at no additional cost to you****

If you’ve missed any of the previous sections you can find them here:

Part 1 – Supplies and Pattern Notes
Part 2 – Rows 1-10
Part 3 – Rows 11-20
Part 4 – Rows 21-30
Part 5 – Rows 31-40
Part 6 – Border and Blocking Instructions

So the body of your Lupine Shawl should be complete now. This following section is completely optional.

It should look similar to this:

When you ended on Row 40 you should have a stitch count of 400. Good thing I check my stitch counts often; I ended up missing two stitches on this last row.

Border

You’ll want to change skeins again, that is unless you still have enough for 2 rows in the current skein. I had already played enough yarn chicken, I wasn’t going to tempt fate again.

Row 1.) Ch 1, turn, Sc in 1^st St, Ch 3, *Sk 1, Sc, Ch 3, repeat from * until Ch 2 Sp, (Sc, Ch 3, Sc) in Ch 2 Sp, *Ch 3, Sk 1, Sc, repeat from * until end. (201 Ch 3 Sps)

Row 2.) Ch 1, Turn, Sc in 1^st St, *Ch 3, Sc in Ch 3 Sp, repeat from * until end, Ch 3, Sc in last St. (202 Ch 3 Sps)

Finish off and weave in all ends (which we probably should have done as we went along 😉).

Blocking Your Lupine Shawl

Blocking your finished shawl is completely optional. I know that not all of us have the resources or room to block such a large item.

Materials you’ll need to block your Lupine Shawl include:

• Stainless steel t-pins
• Blocking wires (makes life easier)

I used 16 block.

Step 1

Hand wash your shawl with a wool wash/gentle soap. Rinse well. Remove as much water as possible.

Step 2

Wrap in a towel to help bring out any residual water. Let it sit for a few minutes while you set up your mats and get your supplies ready.

Set up your mats in a place out of the way of normal traffic. I put my mats in the living room so the kids wouldn’t get to it. They were blocking the front door, which we don’t use. If we needed to use the door for an emergency the least of my worries would be the shawl.

Step 3

Center your shawl on the blocking mats. Start pinning the edge from the middle out. You’ll want to pull slightly, just enough to open the stitch work to your liking.

I placed a pin every 2-3 inches.

Once the top edge is pinned you can move on to the outer edge.

I used blocking wires that knitters usually use for their lacework. Since the Lupine Shawl is lacy I figured I would give them a try.

They worked out really well. I weaved the wires through the spaces in the border going over and under the Sc. Once in place I pinned the wire to the blocking mat.

The wires helped open up the stitching of the border without having to pin each one.

You can adjust any of your pins as you go. I personally like symmetry so what I did to one side I did to the other.

Step 4

Once your Lupine Shawl is pinned in place let it dry for a few days until its fully dry. The time will vary based on the material of the yarn used and how much water was still left in the shawl after washing.

You WILL need to repeat these steps each time you wash your finished shawl. A reason why I like to design pieces that blocking is optional.

Blocking Vs. Not Blocking

So… did you know that I’ve made the Lupine Shawl TWICE?!?! When I made the first one I didn’t photograph any steps. I just kept hooking along.

For the CAL I wanted to photograph most of the steps for you so I needed to make it again.

Here are a few noticeable differences between blocking vs. not blocking. I blocked the first one but not the second because I wanted to show how they differ.

You will probably be the only one to notice on your own shawl.

In the first photo below, on the left is the original shawl and on the right the new one. You can see how by blocking helps open up the stitch work, especially on the border.

I took the following photo with the unblocked shawl over the blocked one. When blocking merino wool like the hand-dyed yarn from High Desert Yarn, there is a lot of stretch in the wet fibers. You can gain a few inches in your shawl after blocking.

So have you decided if you’ll block your shawl? I’m not going to lie, its a pain in the ass, but the results are worth it!!

Share Your Finished Shawl

Use the next week or two to catch up on your shawl and let it dry (if you decided to block it).

Share your finished shawl with the world. You can…

• Upload your project to Ravelry HERE.
• Share your photos in the Facebook group
• Use #LupineShawlCAL on Instagram and tag me @crochetsbytrista
• Email me at crochetsbytrista@gmail.com 

It has been so much fun hosting the Lupine Shawl CAL! I’m glad you’ve decided to join too!

Availability

You can purchase the PDF download on Ravelry and Etsy.

Follow Crochets By Trista on:
Facebook
Instagram
Pinterest
Ravelry
Etsy
Ribblr
Love Crafts

Join the
“Crochets By Trista Crochet Community”
on Facebook. 

I’d love to hear from you! Don’t hesitate to contact me.  Let me know what you’re working on or designs you’d like to see in the future.  Use the links above or email me at crochetsbytrista@gmail.com 

If you’ve purchased my designs in the past, leave a review.  I want to know what you think.

We’re almost done with the Lupine Shawl! This week we will be finishing the main part of the shawl. We’ll be going over rows 31 through 40.

If you’ve missed out on previous sections of the Lupine Shawl CAL they can be found here:

****Post contains affiliate links – which means if you make a purchase from the links below, I will get a small percentage of the sales at no additional cost to you****

Your Lupine Shawl should currently look similar to the one pictured below. You should also have a stitch count of 300 (without counting the Ch 2 space in the center).

You should probably weave in your ends now if you haven’t been doing it already. I didn’t as you can see. I wasn’t the best thing to spend time doing it all at the end.

Row 31.) Turn, (Str, 3Tr) in 1^st St, Tr in next St and across until Ch 2 Sp, (2Tr, Ch 2, 2Tr) in Ch 2 Sp, Tr in next St and across until last St, (4Tr) in last St. (310)

Row 32.) Turn, (Str, Tr, Ch 1, Tr) in 1^st St, *Ch 1, Sk 1, Tr, repeat from * until Ch 2 Sp, (2Tr, Ch 2, 2Tr) in Ch 2 Sp, *Tr, Ch 1, Sk 1, repeat from * until last St, (Tr, Ch 1, 2Tr) in last St. (320)

Row 33.) Turn, (Str, Tr, Ch 1, Tr) in 1^st St, Ch 1, Sk 1, *Tr, Ch 1, Sk 1, repeat from * until Ch 2 Sp, (2Tr, Ch 2, 2Tr) in Ch 2 Sp, Ch 1, Sk 1, *Tr, Ch 1, Sk 1, repeat from * until last St, (Tr, Ch 1, 2Tr) in last St. (330)

Row 34.) Turn, (Str, Tr, Ch 1, Tr) in 1^st St, *Ch 1, Sk 1, Tr, repeat from * until Ch 2 Sp, (2Tr, Ch 2, 2Tr) in Ch 2 Sp, *Tr, Ch 1, Sk 1, repeat from * until last St, (Tr, Ch 1, 2Tr) in last St. (340)

Row 35.) Turn, (Str, 3Tr) in 1^st St, Tr in next St and across until Ch 2 Sp, (2Tr, Ch 2, 2Tr) in Ch 2 Sp, Tr in next St and across until last St, (4Tr) in last St. (350)

If you’re changing skeins every 5 rows, this is the time that you’ll want to do that.

Row 36.) Turn, (Str, 3Tr) in 1^st St, Tr in next St and across until Ch 2 Sp, (2Tr, Ch 2, 2Tr) in Ch 2 Sp, Tr in next St and across until last St, (4Tr) in last St. (360)

Row 37.) Turn, (Str, Tr, Ch 1, Tr) in 1^st St, Ch 1, Sk 1, *Tr, Ch 1, Sk 1, repeat from * until Ch 2 Sp, (2Tr, Ch 2, 2Tr) in Ch 2 Sp, Ch 1, Sk 1, *Tr, Ch 1, Sk 1, repeat from * until last St, (Tr, Ch 1, 2Tr) in last St. (370)

Row 38.) Turn, (Str, Tr, Ch 1, Tr) in 1^st St, *Ch 1, Sk 1, Tr, repeat from * until Ch 2 Sp, (2Tr, Ch 2, 2Tr) in Ch 2 Sp, *Tr, Ch 1, Sk 1, repeat from * until last St, (Tr, Ch 1, 2Tr) in last St. (380)

Row 39.) Turn, (Str, Tr, Ch 1, Tr) in 1^st St, Ch 1, Sk 1, *Tr, Ch 1, Sk 1, repeat from * until Ch 2 Sp, (2Tr, Ch 2, 2Tr) in Ch 2 Sp, Ch 1, Sk 1, *Tr, Ch 1, Sk 1, repeat from * until last St, (Tr, Ch 1, 2Tr) in last St. (390)

You might want to change skeins this last row. I played a little yarn chicken. This is all I have left of that skein. Totally up to you, if you live for the thrill, go for it; worst case you have to frog it.

Row 40.) Turn, (Str, 3Tr) in 1^st St, Tr in next St and across until Ch 2 Sp, (2Tr, Ch 2, 2Tr) in Ch 2 Sp, Tr in next St and across until last St, (4Tr) in last St. (400)

You’ve completed the main section of the Lupine Shawl. Next week we will go over the border and how to block it (if you wanted to).

Weave in those ends. You can see that I still haven’t done mine… oops.

Follow Crochets By Trista on:
Facebook
Instagram
Pinterest
Ravelry
Etsy
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Love Crafts

Join the
“Crochets By Trista Crochet Community”
on Facebook.

I’d love to hear from you! Don’t hesitate to contact me.  Let me know what you’re working on or designs you’d like to see in the future.  Use the links above or email me at crochetsbytrista@gmail.com 

If you’ve purchased my designs in the past, leave a review.  I want to know what you think.

Welcome to Part 4 of the Lupine Shawl CAL! This week we cover rows 21 through 30.

If you’ve missed any of the previous sections you can find them here:

****Post contains affiliate links – which means if you make a purchase from the links below, I will get a small percentage of the sales at no additional cost to you****

You’re current shawl should look similar to the one pictured below.

Row 21.) Turn, (Str, 3Tr) in 1^st St, Tr in next St and across until Ch 2 Sp, (2Tr, Ch 2, 2Tr) in Ch 2 Sp, Tr in next St and across until last St, (4Tr) in last St. (210)

Row 22.) Turn, (Str, Tr, Ch 1, Tr) in 1^st St, *Ch 1, Sk 1, Tr, repeat from * until Ch 2 Sp, (2Tr, Ch 2, 2Tr) in Ch 2 Sp, *Tr, Ch 1, Sk 1, repeat from * until last St, (Tr, Ch 1, 2Tr) in last St. (220)

Row 23.) Turn, (Str, Tr, Ch 1, Tr) in 1^st St, Ch 1, Sk 1, *Tr, Ch 1, Sk 1, repeat from * until Ch 2 Sp, (2Tr, Ch 2, 2Tr) in Ch 2 Sp, Ch 1, Sk 1, *Tr, Ch 1, Sk 1, repeat from * until last St, (Tr, Ch 1, 2Tr) in last St. (230)

Row 24.) Turn, (Str, Tr, Ch 1, Tr) in 1st St, *Ch 1, Sk 1, Tr, repeat from * until Ch 2 Sp, (2Tr, Ch 2, 2Tr) in Ch 2 Sp, *Tr, Ch 1, Sk 1, repeat from * until last St, (Tr, Ch 1, 2Tr) in last St. (240)

Row 25.) Turn, (Str, 3Tr) in 1^st St, Tr in next St and across until Ch 2 Sp, (2Tr, Ch 2, 2Tr) in Ch 2 Sp, Tr in next St and across until last St, (4Tr) in last St. (250)

Remember to change skeins at this point if you have at all the previous changes.

I’m running out of room on my photography table so flat lays are getting a little difficult.

Row 26.) Turn, (Str, 3Tr) in 1^st St, Tr in next St and across until Ch 2 Sp, (2Tr, Ch 2, 2Tr) in Ch 2 Sp, Tr in next St and across until last St, (4Tr) in last St. (260)

Row 27.) Turn, (Str, Tr, Ch 1, Tr) in 1^st St, Ch 1, Sk 1, *Tr, Ch 1, Sk 1, repeat from * until Ch 2 Sp, (2Tr, Ch 2, 2Tr) in Ch 2 Sp, Ch 1, Sk 1, *Tr, Ch 1, Sk 1, repeat from * until last St, (Tr, Ch 1, 2Tr) in last St. (270)

Row 28.) Turn, (Str, Tr, Ch 1, Tr) in 1^st St, *Ch 1, Sk 1, Tr, repeat from * until Ch 2 Sp, (2Tr, Ch 2, 2Tr) in Ch 2 Sp, *Tr, Ch 1, Sk 1, repeat from * until last St, (Tr, Ch 1, 2Tr) in last St. (280)

Row 29.) Turn, (Str, Tr, Ch 1, Tr) in 1^st St, Ch 1, Sk 1, *Tr, Ch 1, Sk 1, repeat from * until Ch 2 Sp, (2Tr, Ch 2, 2Tr) in Ch 2 Sp, Ch 1, Sk 1, *Tr, Ch 1, Sk 1, repeat from * until last St, (Tr, Ch 1, 2Tr) in last St. (290)

Row 30.) Turn, (Str, 3Tr) in 1^st St, Tr in next St and across until Ch 2 Sp, (2Tr, Ch 2, 2Tr) in Ch 2 Sp, Tr in next St and across until last St, (4Tr) in last St. (300)

Change skeins now if you’ve changed skeins at the other sections.

Your current Lupine Shawl should look similar to the one pictured below.

Next week will will cover rows 31 through 40. This will be the last section of main shawl. We’re almost done!

Part 5

Click HERE for Part 5 of the Lupine Shawl CAL!

Availability

You can purchase the PDF download on Ravelry and Etsy.

Follow Crochets By Trista on:
Facebook
Instagram
Pinterest
Ravelry
Etsy
Ribblr
Love Crafts

Join the
“Crochets By Trista Crochet Community”
on Facebook.

I’d love to hear from you! Don’t hesitate to contact me.  Let me know what you’re working on or designs you’d like to see in the future.  Use the links above or email me at crochetsbytrista@gmail.com 

If you’ve purchased my designs in the past, leave a review.  I want to know what you think.